Which sliding surface of skis is better. Cross-country ski base materials
The sliding surface of modern cross-country skis is made from synthesized ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (High Performance Polyethylene - HPPE). This thermoplastic material is used in industrial applications where low friction and high abrasion resistance are required. The common name for the material is P-Tex. It is made by pressing crushed polyethylene particles under high pressure to form a crystal lattice with amorphous zones filled with lower density polymers or special fillers. By itself, HPPE does not have a porous structure and does not absorb ski wax, however, under the influence of high temperature, the ointment penetrates into amorphous zones and is retained there. In most cases, exposure to a temperature of 110°C is sufficient for the ointment to be absorbed into the structure of the P-Tex material. Another way to soak the ointment into the P-Tex plastic is a long thermal exposure at a lower temperature in special thermal chambers.
From a physical point of view, this treatment makes it possible to change the surface hardness of the material in accordance with the shape and aggressiveness of the snow crystals. From a chemical point of view, ski lubricant changes the water-repellent properties of the sliding surface by changing the forces of surface tension, and also provides its lubrication, thereby reducing the friction force. Additives in ski waxes such as fluorine, graphite and molybdenum provide additional benefits to achieve high glide performance.
The lubricant absorbed into the sliding surface is retained in it for a sufficiently long time. The damaged sliding surface largely loses its ability to absorb the ointment. This may be due to various reasons. Overheating of the sliding surface under the influence of a too hot iron leads to the melting of the crystal lattice, which closes the ointment access to the amorphous zones. With prolonged contact with open air, the surface of the material hardens, which also reduces its absorption properties. The particles of dirt deposited on the sliding surface also block the access of the lubricant to the amorphous zones.
Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (HPPE) is in principle not subject to chemical oxidation under the influence of atmospheric oxygen, however, we speak of an "oxidized" sliding surface, referring to the whitish coating that forms on it as a result of mechanical wear of the material with a lack of lubrication. Terminologically, this is not entirely correct, however, this expression has firmly entered the lexicon of skiers and servicemen. Such damage is almost inevitable during the long-term operation of skis, no matter how carefully we take care of them.
Sliding surface maintenance.
The basic rule when caring for skis is to do no harm. The sliding surface loses its properties with prolonged contact of an unlubricated ski with open air. Lubrication helps prevent this process, thereby increasing its life. However, much more damage can be caused by improper handling of skis during their lubrication. Skis are very sensitive to overheating for at least two reasons. Firstly, with direct contact of an iron heated to a temperature above 130 ° C with a sliding surface, HPPE polyethylene begins to melt, which leads to the so-called “burn”, that is, the appearance of seals through which the ointment cannot penetrate inside. But the mechanical structure of the ski is compromised when heated to a much lower temperature. Already at 70 ° C, the adhesive that connects the various parts of the skis loses its strength, and the skis may undergo mechanical deformation. Up to this temperature, the skis can warm up with prolonged contact with a heated iron during the lubrication process.
The most effective way to deal with such overheating is to follow the basic safety rules: heat the iron to the temperature indicated on the ointment package, and move it along the sliding surface from toe to heel, and not back and forth. As a rule, two to three passes from toe to heel are sufficient when applying any type of ointment. If for some reason it is necessary to continue preparing the skis with a hot iron, the skis must be cooled to room temperature before the process is resumed.
Saturation.
In order to ensure the stability of the lubricant, it is necessary to properly saturate the sliding surface with paraffin. Worldly wisdom suggests that it is necessary to soak the paraffin into the sliding surface as many times as possible in order to completely saturate it. In fact, this is a myth that apparently arose in those days when, after applying the structure with the help of a grinding stone, repeated processing was really required in order to bring the sliding surface to a perfectly smooth state. In reality, only repeated and thorough mechanical processing of the skis in order to remove structural irregularities, polyethylene hairs and burrs that arose under the influence of an abrasive grinding stone was important. Modern machines are much more careful with the ski, so after a couple of hours of work the sliding surface can be brought to an almost perfect state. As for its saturation with paraffin, then it is quite enough to apply five layers of soft ground paraffin, which at a relatively low temperature easily penetrates into the P-Tex plastic.
Subsequent processing no longer allows the ointment to penetrate deeper.
Conditioning
Soft ground paraffin relatively easily penetrates deep into the sliding surface, but also easily exits. In order to provide better wear resistance of the grease, it is necessary to apply a harder wax over a soft ground wax. It does not penetrate deep into the base, but it fuses with the soft primer and ends up penetrating deeper than if applied on its own.
Sliding surface care
In the process of skiing, the paraffin is gradually erased, however, the sliding properties of the ski are preserved due to the constant release of paraffin from the depth of the plastic to the outside. This process provides constant lubrication, but it also means that the skis need to be lubricated as the lubricant wears out. If the skis are constantly lubricated with only one type of ointment (only soft or only hard paraffins), then the stability of the lubricant will deteriorate from time to time (especially if only soft paraffins were used). Cold weather skis are usually lubricated with cold wax only, but should be hot cleaned from time to time, saturated with soft ground wax and conditioned with hard wax as mentioned above. When cleaning with a hot method, the paraffin should be removed immediately after application, before it hardens. A good alternative way to clean the sliding surface is to use modern solvent-based fluoride wax washes (but never hold wax washes!).
Thermal chambers
With the help of a heat chamber, an exceptionally high degree of saturation of the sliding surface with ground paraffin can be achieved. The mechanism of paraffin absorption in a thermal chamber is different from absorption with a heated iron. In iron absorption, the resulting temperature gradient plays a decisive role. Here it is important to heat the sliding surface to a temperature at which the lubricant will quickly be absorbed inside due to the temperature difference between the outer and inner parts of the sliding surface. There is no temperature gradient in the thermal chamber, the entire ski is heated to a constant temperature, at which the paraffin is in a softened state. Therefore, it is absorbed slowly, and the longer the exposure time, the more paraffin will be absorbed deep into the sliding surface. However, here too it is necessary to observe the measure, since there is no particular need for the paraffin to be absorbed in a larger amount than is really necessary, because the role of the ground paraffin is only to absorb the lubricant according to the weather in the future, ensuring the stability of this lubricant. and reducing ski preparation time.
Damage recovery.
During operation, the sliding surface is inevitably damaged. The lesser evil here are minor scratches and other minor damage resulting from mechanical wear and tear during normal use. Many skiers bring their skis to be machined because of what they call “terrible” scratches that are actually sometimes hard to see with the naked eye. Often skiers complain that the sliding surface of the ski, in their opinion, has become insufficiently even, “went like a screw”. Such deformations do occur over time, partly due to “mechanical fatigue” of the ski structure under load, but more due to improper handling, most often due to overheating of the ski during lubrication. In fact, small deformations do not affect the quality of sliding so much. Good sliding can also be achieved in cases where the sliding surface does not lie perfectly in a horizontal plane.
Very often, skiers are concerned that "oxidized" or "dry" areas appear on the surface. The sliding surface is covered with a whitish coating, especially in those places where the ski exerts the greatest pressure on the snow. Most often, this phenomenon occurs after skiing on hard tracks (ice, artificial or aggressive snow). This is due to the fact that the softer zones are abraded, and the harder polyethylene fibers are concentrated on the sliding surface. Some types of plastics are more affected than others, but this does not necessarily indicate that the sliding surface plastic is starting to lose its properties. In such cases, it is enough to cycle the sliding surface and saturate it with ground paraffin.
The situation is much more serious if the paraffin shavings formed when the ointment is removed with a scraper becomes black. This may mean that the physical structure of the material of the sliding surface begins to gradually break down, and the fillers (for example, graphite) leave the amorphous zones into the outer layer of the material. The reason for this phenomenon may be overheating of the sliding surface when working with a heated iron, or prolonged contact of an unprotected ski with open air. Again, some types of plastic are more susceptible to this, while others are less so. It is possible that saturating the plastic with graphite paraffin will prevent further degradation of the plastic, but a more correct and reliable solution would be ski scraping or machine processing with a new structure applied.
Cross-country skis are usually finished at the factory on a machine with an abrasive belt or abrasive stone. Finishing is usually carried out once before new skis are put into service and periodically during the season on a grinder with an abrasive stone. Processing is carried out by experienced specialists in special workshops. The sander can be set up in different ways to achieve a ski surface texture that matches specific trends in snow conditions.- sliding surface structure.
- very smooth, shiny, as if polished
- melted by high temperature and high pressure processing
- oxidized, dry as a result of storage without a layer of ointment
Experience shows that a surface does not glide well if it:
- Fine structure for dry friction conditions from -15°C and below;
- Medium structure for intermediate friction from -15°C to 0°C;
- Coarse structure for wet friction at 0°C and warmer. These groups of structures are also related to the types and sizes of snow crystals, snow deformability and free water content of snow.
Excellent ski surface textures can be applied with hand tools. The most common tool for applying structure to cross-country skis is knurling. This tool can form structures from thin to very large (0.25 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.75 mm. 1.0 mm. 2.0 mm and 3.0 mm). The tool is held from the toe to the tail of the ski (or vice versa, depending on the design of the knurling) with a dense, constant pressure. The ski must be supported along its entire length, if possible using a profile machine. Combinations of structure types can be obtained by rolling one structure onto another. After rolling the structure onto the surface with a sharp steel scraper or razor blade, lightly level the tops of the beds rolled onto the surface. Also go several times along the ski with fibertex to round off the sharp edges of the grooves.
Structure applied with a grinder.
The grinder can create a variety of sliding surface patterns. Grinding is carried out, as is known, by passing the surface of the ski over a rapidly rotating abrasive stone. The shape of the working surface of the stone is supported by the removal of irregularities by a diamond filling head moving across the working surface. This dressing not only keeps the ski surface flat, but also creates a pattern on the stone, which in turn creates structure on the surface of the ski. The speed of the filling head, the speed of rotation of the abrasive stone, the force with which the ski is pressed against the grinding stone, and the speed with which the ski is passed over the stone are the factors that create the desired pattern on the surface of the ski. The higher cross speed of the diamond head when threading will create larger structures. For a finer structure, this speed must be reduced.
After machine grinding, the fibers that need to be removed remain little or not at all. To be sure, look at the surface through a magnifying glass. If, after mechanical grinding, the surface is passed with a razor scraper and then fibertex, this will help to remove the uppermost layer of the sliding surface, which may have melted during grinding.
Removing the pile
For optimal sliding, it is necessary to completely free the polyethylene sliding surface from microfibers or fibers of abraded plastic. When updating the sliding surface in any manual way or on a machine with an abrasive belt, additional removal of the pile is necessary to complete the processing. Fibertex is specially designed for lint removal. Fibertex made of thin nylon fibers and abrasive particles of silicon carbide gives the best results. To remove the pile, the fibertex sponge can be moved in both directions. Also, in order to raise more fibers for subsequent removal with fibertex, pass the surface with a bronze brush several times. You can even brush and fibertex several times from the tail to the tip of the ski in order to lift more microfibers. Finish off with a few passes of fibertex, which contains a softer abrasive.
Another very effective tool for removing polyethylene microfibers is a razor scraper. Light scraping movements combined with fibertex will remove the pile without disturbing the pattern of the structure.
Surface burn (oxidized sliding surface)
A common nuisance when skiing on hard snow is the so-called "surface burn". It is best seen on black surfaces. The "burned" surface looks "dry", but what you actually see is ragged polyethylene fibers worn by hard cold snow. In the first half of winter, when the air and ground are cold and there is little snow, the chances of surface damage from abrasion are highest.
"Fired" and oxidized surfaces are treated in the same way. It is reasonable to remove the worn layer with a razor scraper or a steel scraper. Don't forget to re-roll the grooves. However, if the burn or oxidation is "mild" (not severe), fibertex alone may be sufficient. Saturate the surface in a hot way with a soft ointment. To reduce surface wear under these conditions, it is preferable to use ointments with synthetic paraffins as a top coat. They can be used alone or mixed with an ointment one step warmer.
Take care of your skis before you go skiing!
Progress does not stand still, and today every self-respecting skier should know such words as "paraffin", "accelerator" and "structure".The need for ski lubrication is determined in an obvious way. If they do not glide well, snow sticks to the sliding surface, and when moving it seems that someone is stepping on your skis from behind, then it's time to think about lubrication.
Let's start with the fact that according to the "rules" of skiing, it is necessary to prepare for each exit to the ski track, although this is not necessary. But if yesterday your skis glided well, and today the temperature and humidity of the air (and, accordingly, snow) have changed - this is a sure sign that it is worth remembering what the skis were smeared with yesterday and making adjustments. If the weather is more or less even, the snow is good, and you are a lazy person, then after treating the skis with good paraffin, you can safely ride 15-20 km, usually the paraffin stays on the sliding surface of the skis for so long.
Sometimes the sliding surface of the ski looks as if "dried", covered with some kind of white "coat". In fact, these are microvilli sticking out of the sliding surface of the skis, torn apart by snow crystals. Such a "plaque" is an excellent reason to paraffin the skis, but try not to allow it to appear, as during oxidation the sliding surface loses precious fluorine, graphite and other impurities contained in it. In addition to abrasion, the sliding surface with paraffin applied to it is subject to another unpleasant phenomenon - it perfectly absorbs various dirt, which is clearly visible when the sliding surface initially has a white color and then begins to turn gray (at present, skis with a white sliding surface practically do not released, as it was already noticed earlier, the composition of the sliding surface includes such components as fluorine and graphite, which give it a dark color). The fact is that the polyethylene from which the sliding surface is made is a porous material. These pores absorb wax, especially when applied hot, and help it stay in place longer. But the dirt gets into these pores. Therefore, before applying fresh paraffin, the sliding surface should be cleaned by removing the old contaminated paraffin. In addition, the so-called structure - microscopic longitudinal grooves - can be applied to the prepared sliding surface. When preparing cross-country skis, the structure can be applied with special knurling at home, moreover, the step and depth of its grooves is determined by the state of the snow, namely, by the size of its crystals.
And now in more detail.
2. Preparation of classic skis.
How to clean classic skis from ointment? For example, from a liquid ointment?- We close the ski area covered with ointment, toilet paper or napkins.
- Heat with an iron until the ointment is absorbed into the paper.
- Using the plastic cycle, we remove this impregnated paper. If necessary, this procedure is repeated.
- Remaining dirt is removed with a wash.
The ointment is more even when applied cold and when applied in several thin layers. It is better (and more correct) to rub the ointment on a profile machine.
Rubbing the ointment is done with quick movements. The cork rubs due to the heat generated by friction, however, if the heat is too much, the ointment will begin to stretch, as a result, lumps and gaps will appear.
Remember that when using liquid waxes, the block should be shorter, since the coefficient of adhesion with snow for liquid waxes is much higher compared to solid waxes. On average, when using liquid ointment, the block becomes shorter by 15 cm. Many skiers, when switching to liquid ointments, not only make the block shorter, but often even switch to stiffer skis. In addition, the length of the distance has a great influence on the length of the block when switching to liquid ointments - the longer it is, the more the athlete gets tired, the more confident he needs to hold, and hence the longer block. In this case, the block is shortened compared to solid ointments not by 20 cm, but by 15 or only 10 cm.
Block for holding liquid ointment (klister)
3. Preparation of skating skis.
Since paraffins are hot applied waxes, you will need an iron to use them, spend some money on a good lubricating iron - it will work better and keep your skis from overheating.
HOW SHOULD YOU USE THE IRON
After the iron has reached the correct temperature (which is usually the temperature at which the paraffin begins to melt on the surface of the iron), the iron is moved from the tip of the ski to the end in one continuous pass. Transfer the iron and start the same procedure again with the toe of the ski. Repeat the process 4 to 7 times per ski. This process ensures that the correct time is spent warming up the ski and there is little chance of overheating the base.
The room temperature must be at least 16°C. Most skiers do not understand the importance of this problem. At ambient temperatures below 16°C, the temperature inside the ski also drops, and there is too little space between the polyethylene molecules for proper wax absorption. A cold room often results in the base being heated to excessive temperatures or poor wax penetration.
The application of paraffin is the most important moment in the proper preparation of skis. Simple facts:
COMMON ERRORS:
Most skiers use the wrong iron. The household iron, which is commonly used by most skiers, is not designed to melt fluoride waxes or hard synthetic waxes. The melting point of Swix Cera F is 100°C (212 F) and the melting point of Swix CH 4 is 95°C (203 F). Paraffins made today rub off less, are harder than traditional paraffins, and therefore require a hotter iron temperature. When skiers use a home iron, they usually set the temperature somewhere in the region... "cotton", "silk" or "synthetic". It's horrible!
Do not use a household iron!
Preparing skis for primer
Before proceeding with the preparation of new skis, it is necessary to determine how the sliding surface is processed. Skis that have been polished at the factory require light hand sanding (sharp metal scraping), which removes only the villi, but not the plastic (i.e. without erasing the pattern - the steinslip on the sliding surface). If there was no factory grinding, then it is necessary to check the condition of the sliding surface, removing defects. This is done by removing a thin layer of the surface of the metal cycle, which alternates with paraffin impregnation (soak abundantly with paraffin, then cycle - repeat this procedure several times). Then we clean the skis from paraffin residues with a brass brush and hard fibertex.
Ski primer
After scraping the ski of a metal cycle, it is necessary to carefully clean the sliding surface with a brass or bronze brush and hard fibertex, and then apply a primer wax (special primer or any more or less soft one with an application range of 3 -10 degrees. Purple is usually used). In this case, it is desirable to use paraffin in excess, warming up the skis two or three times without intermediate scraping and adding paraffin insofar as it is absorbed into the surface.
Cool down your skis. After 20 - 30 minutes, remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and treat the surface with a nylon brush. Carry out this treatment of the sliding surface several times with a thorough cleaning with a nylon brush after each layer. With the above ski primer, we must achieve the creation of a gleaming layer on the surface.
If the weather conditions require the ski to have structure and the skis do not have a factory topcoat, the appropriate cut must be made by hand. The structure is always applied before the base wax is applied to the ski. True, sometimes the weather interferes with this work order: for example, in the last hour before the start, temperature and humidity change dramatically. In this case, the cutting has to be applied after the main paraffin.
Ski primer for the appropriate weather.
When priming a sliding surface under basic paraffin, remember:
The primer is made in the usual way, using an iron with a normal melting point for this paraffin (as a rule, this is a temperature of 120 degrees). Apply paraffin to the sliding surface, melting the paraffin bar on the iron and thus filling the ski with a thick layer of molten hot paraffin.
OBSERVATION:- it is not always possible (primarily financial) to "pour" paraffin on the ski. Many skiing enthusiasts use the following method: with a short quick movement, a paraffin tile is melted on an iron, and with the same quick movement of this tile (while there is melted paraffin on it), a section of the ski is rubbed. The procedure is repeated several times until the entire ski is covered with paraffin. Then the paraffin is melted on the ski, as usual, with an iron. This method is not bad and has the right to life. In any case, you will be able to achieve significant savings in paraffin.
Cool the ski for 20-30 minutes. (up to room temperature), then remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and carefully treat the surface with a nylon brush.
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Application of base wax (suitable for the weather)
Under the appropriate weather, we select the most suitable paraffin. After choosing a suitable paraffin, apply it to the sliding surface, melting the paraffin bar on the iron and thus filling the ski with a thick layer of melted hot paraffin. Allow to cool and cycle with a plastic cycle. Next, wax residues are removed with a nylon brush. Then you need to polish to a shine with either a sanding cloth or a softer brush.
When applying paraffin, you need to know the following: if paraffin is used for frosty weather (more refractory paraffin), then most of it must be removed with a plastic scraper before it hardens, because if you let the refractory paraffin cool completely, it will become hard and will chip off the ski during scraping pieces, leaving large spaces of skis without paraffin. After the final cooling of the ski, the remaining paraffin is removed with a rigid plastic cycle and then with a rigid nylon brush. Soft paraffins are processed in a similar way. The only difference is that the soft wax must be allowed to cool completely and then removed with a plastic scraper and a medium hard nylon brush. Otherwise, the procedure for applying and removing paraffin is identical to that used when priming skis.
Application of the last layer: regular (free-flowing) powder or pressed (accelerator)
The powder is sprinkled in a thin layer on a sliding surface, and then melted with an iron (the correct melting of the powder is evidenced by peculiar "dancing" sparks or stars that appear within one or two seconds after the passage of the iron). At the same time, it is desirable to melt the powder or accelerator in one motion, when the iron slowly moves along the ski.
After cooling, the sliding surface of the ski is cleaned of excess powder with a natural brush (horsehair) and polished with polishing paper. All! Your skis are ready to race.
ADVICE: when cleaning the sliding surface from the remnants of the powder, do not press hard on the ski - make gentle movements with slight pressure on the brush.
Powders and accelerators can also be ground cold, without using an iron. To do this, the powder is sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski (and the ski is rubbed with an accelerator, respectively) and rubbed with a hand, natural cork or a special polishing cork. Then they are processed with a natural brush and polished with polishing paper. However, the powder applied in this way is retained on the ski worse than the powder fixed on the skis with a hot iron, and this method of preparing skis is recommended only when participating in competitions for short (5-10-15 km) distances.
The quality of ski glide determines the speed of the skier and has a significant impact on his result, whether it is alpine or cross-country skiing. The struggle to improve the quality of gliding has always been of principle, especially at world-class competitions. In fact, it has long turned into a separate (pre-launch) competition between service teams. Feedback from servicemen and skiers themselves about the quality of glide in certain conditions has served and continues to serve as the most valuable information for developers of ski waxes.
To date, the developers of ski lubricants, using the achievements of modern chemistry and innovative technologies (including nano-technologies), have reached perfection in the production of their products, so that further improvement in the quality of sliding by improving slip ointments at the molecular level (first of all, speech is about fluorocarbon grease) is becoming more and more problematic. But more and more importance is now attached to factors that are much less studied from a scientific point of view, and, first of all, the so-called structure of the sliding surface.
Let's try to figure this out together. First of all, let's refresh in memory those facts that are quite well known, generally recognized, and do not cause doubts.
When the sliding surface of the ski moves through the snow, it heats up due to friction against snow crystals. As a result, the snow melts and a thin film of water appears. Thanks to this, the ski glides well.
But everything is fine within reason. In very cold weather with dry snow, the water layer may be too thin, in which case it will not provide good glide. On the contrary, in warm weather and with wet snow, too much water is formed, the so-called "leakage" occurs, and the drag force increases, and the sliding speed decreases.
In order to neutralize this phenomenon, the so-called “structure” is applied to the sliding surface of the ski - a system of grooves, somewhat reminiscent of the grooves on car tires. They contribute to the removal of excess water, thereby reducing the inhibitory effect of "suction".
In general, for cold weather and dry snow, the distance between the grooves of the structure should be 0.5 mm or less, for warmer and wetter snow - from 0.75 mm or more. Another formulation of this rule is that the distance between the grooves of the structure should not exceed half the linear size of the snow crystal, in order to prevent the grooves from "clogging" with snow.
According to world-class servicemen, the influence of a correctly selected structure on the quality of sliding is higher than the influence of choosing the right ointment. Racing skis with black (graphite-containing) polyethylene require less groove depth in the structure compared to skis with colorless plastic, since black plastic releases less thermal energy when sliding. To this it should be added that high fluoride slip ointments "work" better on a thinner structure, since they "repel" water better and do not need particularly deep grooves to drain it.
Racing skis that go on sale, as a rule, have a factory structure of various levels of aggressiveness depending on their purpose (meaning the division into “cold” and “warm” skis). They are best adapted to the conditions for which they are intended, so when buying skis, you should take into account the climatic features of the region in which you live or intend to ski.
If you are unhappy with the structure applied at the factory, or it has undergone significant wear, there are two ways to fix the situation. The first is the application of the so-called "manual" structure with the help of special tools - manual knurling. 
The second way is to apply the structure by machine on grinding machines, which have received the common name “steinslip”, which can be roughly translated from German as “grinding with an emery stone”.
The structure applied with the help of manual knurling does not last long, since the material of the sliding surface - UHMW polyethylene (Ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene) - is a rather elastic material, which tends to return to its original shape at a temperature of about 100 degrees and above. This means that with each subsequent ski preparation with an iron, the knurling grooves practically disappear. It should also be noted that the basic factory structure does not completely disappear when knurling is used. This means that adapting "cold" skis to warm weather (and vice versa) with knurling is quite problematic. This applies primarily to manual knurling with rotating cutters, which “squeeze out” a relatively shallow pattern on a sliding surface. Fixed cutter knurling "cuts" grooves that last longer, but still disappear after a while. In addition, it should be noted that the knurling cutters become dull rather quickly (after processing 10-15 pairs of skis) and require sharpening or replacement.
A more radical and effective way to update the structure on a sliding surface is to process skis on special grinding machines (Steingrinds). The main advantages of this process are:
The applied structure is retained for quite a long time. Even ambitious riders resort to this procedure no more than twice a season, and for an amateur rider it is enough to treat their skis before the start of the new season. 
The grinder reproduces the structure with almost perfect precision. That is, if a particular structure has proven itself well in the most typical conditions for a given region, it can be reproduced with each subsequent processing.
The software of the machine is able to ensure the application of a large number of structures of various types and parameters, which allows you to choose the best version of the structure for almost any weather and snow conditions.
The grinder does not just apply this or that structure to a sliding surface. With it, you can completely remove traces of previous structures, as well as perfectly level the sliding surface, making it absolutely flat before applying a new structure (without “blockages” in one direction or another, which is typical when skis wear, especially skate skis).
However, one should take into account the fact that service centers providing such services often deal mainly with alpine skiing and snowboarding. When processing skis and snowboards with metal edges, 5-6 passes are usually made to level the sliding surface, and then 3-4 more passes to apply the structure. In this case, the abrasive stone exerts a sufficiently large pressure on the sliding surface of the ski or snowboard. Metal edges prevent the removal of too much polyethylene, so this treatment does not pose a particular danger to them.
The situation is quite different with cross-country skiing. They do not have metal edges, and the layer of sliding plastic is somewhat thinner. They must be processed with extreme care, with less pressure of the abrasive stone on the sliding surface and, as a rule, fewer passes. Otherwise, your skis may be hopelessly damaged. Therefore, before using the services of a particular service center, collect all possible information about its specialization and reputation.
Applying a structure by machine is a fairly rare operation. While not inherently more expensive than prepping skis with fluorocarbon powders and accelerators, it shouldn't be done too often due to the wear and tear of the plastic in the process. Therefore, it is desirable to take measures to ensure that this structure is preserved for as long as possible. First of all, it is necessary to deal with the oxidation of the sliding surface, since the oxidized (more precisely, having lost its original hardness) plastic must be removed by scraping, and this entails the removal of the structure. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the sliding surface, preventing it from drying out. Treat the sliding surface with paraffin in a timely manner, remove the old sliding lubricant only in a “hot” way, fill the plastic with transport paraffin when storing and transporting skis - these are the basic rules for ski care that must be strictly observed.
When scratches appear, do not rush to “treat” them with repair candles. A small scratch affects glide much less than a large patch.
Another important advantage of the machine structure is the shape and depth of the grooves. This is especially important when applying herringbone structures consisting of individual short grooves arranged in a diagonal direction. Patterned cutting abrasive stones allow you to cut fairly thin and deep grooves that will not clog with snow when sliding. These cavities serve as "pockets" for air, which prevents braking due to "suction". Manual knurling reproduces such grooves, in which the depth increases gradually. They are easily clogged with snow and lose their effectiveness.
A very important point is the high-quality processing of the sliding surface after applying the structure on the “Steingrind” machine. After such processing, a large amount of villi and plastic particles remain on the sliding surface, which at first glance may seem ideal. To remove them, carefully, without much pressure (so as not to damage the applied structure), treat the sliding surface with a sharp metal cycle, and then with fibertex. Then carry out hot cleaning several times with the help of low-melting paraffin, removed in a warm state. The final cleaning is best done with refractory (“cold”) paraffin, which, when removed with a scraper, will “break off” from the sliding surface along with the villi. The final refinement of skis (the so-called "rollback") can be carried out in the only correct natural way - you need to drive several tens of kilometers on them, while the quality of the glide will improve with each kilometer traveled.
There are a large number of types of structures that differ in the shape and depth of the grooves, as well as the distance between them. Their effect on glide has not yet been scientifically studied, so skiers and ski service professionals rely on their experience and intuition. When choosing a structure, rely on your own experience or trust reliable, proven professionals.
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SPECIALLY ADJUSTED FOR HARD SNOW. THE 569 LAST PROVIDES INCREASED ACCELERATION AND EDGING CONTROL DURING THE EARLY PHASE OF SKATE AFTER PULL-OFF.
BALANCED BODY 587
SPECIALLY ADJUSTED FOR WET SNOW. SHORTEN LAMINATE LENGTH FOR REDUCED CONTACT ZONE IN SLIDING PHASE. COMBINED WITH MORE OPEN TOES AND HEELS WHEN CLOSING THE SKI, THIS DESIGN PROVIDES MAXIMUM SPEED IN WET SNOW CONDITIONS AND EXCLUDES SUCTION EFFECT.
BALANCED BODY 562
SPECIALLY ADJUSTED FOR COLD SNOW. LONGER CONTACT ZONES IN THE SLIDING PHASE AND MORE TIGHTLY CONVERGING SOCKS AND HEELS WHEN CLOSING THE SKI. THIS DESIGN PROVIDES THE CREATION OF A THIN WET FILM NECESSARY FOR A QUICK SLIDE IN COLD SNOW CONDITIONS.
864 ADJUSTING THE BLOCK FOR HARD OINTMENTS
SPECIAL SETTING FOR HARD OINTMENTS. LOOSE TOES AND HEEL FOR OPTIMAL ACCELERATION.
865 CLISTER SHOE SETUP
SPECIAL SETTING FOR LIQUID OINTMENTS. LOOSE TOES AND HEEL FOR OPTIMAL ACCELERATION.
866 UNIVERSAL SHOE SETTING
SPECIAL SETUP FOR UNIVERSAL SNOW CONDITIONS. LOOSE TOES AND HEEL FOR OPTIMAL ACCELERATION.
HEEL - TOE
A VERY EFFICIENT CLASSIC LAST THAT ALLOWS TO CLOSE THE LAST FOR A GOOD GRIP WHEN ROLLING TO THE FOREFOOT AND LEAVES THE LAST OPEN WHEN SLIDING ON THE HEEL OR MIDFOOT. IMPROVES SLIDING AND ACCELERATION WHEN PUSHING OFF.
OPTIMIZED LAST
A SPECIAL BODY PROVIDING FULL CONTACT OF THE HOLDING ZONE WITH THE SNOW WHEN PUSHING OFF. ALLOWS USE OF SHORTER SKIS FOR BETTER HANDLING.
SALOMON SKI CORE
HARD STIFF NOMEX
VERY RIGID, COMPOSITE HONEYCOMB CORE COMBINED WITH CARBON, FIBERGLASS SHELL AND THIN WOOD WALLS. THIS CORE PROVIDES MAXIMUM CONSTANT PERFORMANCE WITH MINIMUM WEIGHT. STIFF NOMEX HARD CORE IMPROVES SKI PERFORMANCE ON WARM AND HARD PITS. SHORT SLIDING ZONES AND WIDE AMPLITUDE FOR
ACCELERATION ON KANT AND ENERGY FEELING WHEN PUSHING OFF.
NOMEX
VERY LIGHT COMPOSITE HONEYCOMB CORE COMBINED WITH CARBON, FIBERGLASS SHELL AND THIN WOOD WALLS. LIGHTWEIGHT CONSTRUCTION FOR DURABLE AND PERMANENT PERFORMANCE OF THE SHOE.
D-CARBON
LIGHTWEIGHT RACING CORE DEVELOPED FROM THE S-LAB EXPERIENCE. TWISTING RIGID, LIGHTWEIGHT FOR A GREAT PUSH FEEL.
DENSOLITE 3000
DENSOLITE DRY FOAM WRAPED IN CARBON AND FIBERGLASS SHELL FOR EASY AND RESPONSIBLE BASE CONSTRUCTION.
DENSOLITE 2000
LIGHT AND TWIST RIGID DENSOLITE DRY FOAM CORE WRAPED IN A BI-DIRECTIONAL FIBERGLASS SHELL.
DENSOLITE 1000
LIGHTWEIGHT DENSOLITE DRY FOAM CORE WRAPED IN A SPECIAL UNI-DIRECTIONAL FIBERGLASS SHELL.
SLIDING SURFACES OF SALOMON SKI
G5 ZEOLIT
WORLD CUP LEVEL SLIDING SURFACE WITH MAXIMUM SLIDING PERFORMANCE + ZEOLIT MINERAL ADDITIVE FOR EXTENDING THE LIFE OF SKI GREASES AND GETTING DEEPER PENETRATION OF OINTMENTS INTO THE SLIDING SURFACE.
SURFACE COLD — MOLECULAR WEIGHT 9 MIO AND GRAPHITE CONTENT 5%
WARM SURFACE — MOLECULAR WEIGHT 9 MIO AND GRAPHITE CONTENT 15%
WHITE SURFACE G5
WORLD CUP LEVEL SLIDING SURFACE FOR MAXIMUM SPEED IN WARM AND SPRING SNOW CONDITIONS.
G4 ZEOLIT
A RACING SLIDING SURFACE WITH ZEOLIT MINERAL ADDED FOR DEEPER PENETRATION AND LONGER LIFE OF THE GLIDING OINTMENT.
SALOMON OIL-FREE SKI HOLDING SYSTEMS
SKINGRIP+
SKIN MATERIAL FOR EVEN DISTRIBUTION BETWEEN HOLD AND SLIDE IS GLUED BELOW THE SHOE OF THE EQUIPE RC SKIN AND AERO 9 SKIN.
SKINGRIP
SKIN TECHNOLOGY WITH IMPROVED SLIDING. FOR MORE EXPERIENCED SKIERS. MATERIAL COMPATIBLE WITH EQUIPE RC SKIN AND AERO 9 SKIN.
ZERO
WORLD CUP LEVEL TECHNOLOGY FOR TEMPERATURES AROUND 0 DEGREES AND WITH VARIABLE SNOW CONDITIONS. NEW POLYURETHANE INSERT PROVIDES IMPROVED ACCELERATION. A MORE ACCURATE PREPARATION FOR SPECIFIC CONDITIONS IS POSSIBLE WITH THE HELP OF THE SANDBOARD.
G2 SYNCHRO
OIL-FREE PUSH-OFF HOLDING TECHNOLOGY WITH TWO DIFFERENT PATTERNS PROVIDES A SMOOTH TRANSITION FROM THE SLIDING PHASE TO THE HOLDING PHASE. GOOD SLIDING AND VERY GOOD PUSH-OFF HOLD.
G2PLUS
OIL-FREE KEEP TECHNOLOGY WHEN PULLING OFF. VERY GOOD GRIP AND GOOD SLIDE IN ALL SNOW CONDITIONS.
POSIGRIP
EMBOSSED, RELIEF DRAWING. FOR SKI WITH IRON EDGING XADV.
SALOMON SKI GEOMETRY
S-CUT
LIGHTWEIGHT CARVING GEOMETRY AT THE BACK OF THE SKI AND A WIDE PLATFORM FORWARD PROVIDES MORE CONTROL WHEN YOU RIDE. SKIS WITH THIS GEOMETRY ARE VERY STABLE, ESPECIALLY WHEN SKIING WITHOUT A SKI ON PURPOSE SNOW.
SKATING RACE GEOMETRY
SKATE RACING GEOMETRY WITH GREAT EDGE CONTACT. MAXIMUM EFFICIENCY IN ALL PHASES OF PUSH-OFF. WORLD CUP RACING LEVEL.
GEOMETRY CLASSIC PARALLEL RACE
THE PARALLEL GEOMETRY OF THE CLASSIC SKI GIVES THEM ADDITIONAL SPEED AND PROMOTES A STRAIGHTER SLIDE.
SALOMON SKI SURFACE PREPARATION
DGM DIGITAL CONTROL OF THE STRUCTURE CUTTING PROCESS
OUR MOST CLEAR CUTTING STRUCTURE AND DIGITAL PROCESS CONTROL GUARANTEES THE OPTIMAL PATTERN AND DEPTH OF THE CUTTING STRUCTURE FOR THE BEST SLIDE IN ALL SNOW CONDITIONS.
WORLD CUP WARM STRUCTURE
THIN IN DEPTH STRUCTURE CUTTING FOR TEMPERATURE -8 AND WARMER. ALLOWS TO PRODUCE WITH ADDITIONAL DEVICES FOR THE BEST SPEED IN ESPECIALLY WARM AND WET SNOW.
WORLD CUP UNIVERSAL STRUCTURE
THIN IN DEPTH UNIVERSAL STRUCTURE FOR TEMPERATURE -8 AND WARMER.
WORLD CUP COLD STRUCTURE
A VERY FINE PATTERN STRUCTURE FOR GREAT SLIDING IN COLD AND VERY COLD CONDITIONS.
RACE UNIVERSAL STRUCTURE
A VERSATILE STRUCTURE APPLIED ON A SLIDING SURFACE AT LOW PRESSURE FOR A GREAT SLIDE AT ANY TEMPERATURE.
PERFORMANCE UNIVERSAL STRUCTURE
A LOW-PRESSURE STRUCTURE THAT ALLOWS THE SKI TO GLIDE WELL IN ALL SNOW CONDITIONS.
PROTECTIVE FILM
PROTECTIVE SURFACE FILM WITH WORLD CUP STRUCTURE AND ZEOLIT SURFACE
FACTORY LUBRICATION AND BRUSHING
SCRATCH PROTECTION
PROTECTION AGAINST OXIDATION AND UV RAYS
EASY TO TEST ON FLEXOR MACHINES (ANTI-SCRATCH)
SIMPLY REMOVE THE FILM AND BRUSH THE SKI.
BRUSH AND GO
SIMPLY REMOVE THE PROTECTIVE FILM FROM THE SLIDING SURFACE OF THE SKI, PROCESS WITH A SKI BRUSH TO REMOVE EXCESSIVE FLUOROUS OINTMENT. THE SKIS ARE READY TO USE.
Dear readers, if you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them!
The quality of ski glide determines the speed of the skier and has a significant impact on his result, whether it is alpine or cross-country skiing. The struggle to improve the quality of gliding has always been of principle, especially at world-class competitions. In fact, it has long turned into a separate (pre-launch) competition between service teams. Feedback from servicemen and skiers themselves about the quality of glide in certain conditions has served and continues to serve as the most valuable information for developers of ski waxes.
To date, the developers of ski lubricants, using the achievements of modern chemistry and innovative technologies (including nano-technologies), have reached perfection in the production of their products, so that further improvement in the quality of sliding by improving slip ointments at the molecular level (first of all, speech is about fluorocarbon grease) is becoming more and more problematic. But more and more importance is now attached to factors that are much less studied from a scientific point of view, and, first of all, the so-called structure of the sliding surface.
Let's try to figure this out together. First of all, let's refresh in memory those facts that are quite well known, generally recognized, and do not cause doubts.
When the sliding surface of the ski moves through the snow, it heats up due to friction against snow crystals. As a result, the snow melts and a thin film of water appears. Thanks to this, the ski glides well.
But everything is fine within reason. In very cold weather with dry snow, the water layer may be too thin, in which case it will not provide good glide. On the contrary, in warm weather and with wet snow, too much water is formed, the so-called "leakage" occurs, and the drag force increases, and the sliding speed decreases.
In order to neutralize this phenomenon, the so-called "structure"- a system of grooves, somewhat reminiscent of the grooves on car tires. They contribute to the removal of excess water, thereby reducing the inhibitory effect of "suction".
In general, for cold weather and dry snow, the distance between the grooves of the structure should be 0.5 mm or less, for warmer and wetter snow - from 0.75 mm or more. Another formulation of this rule is that the distance between the grooves of the structure should not exceed half the linear size of the snow crystal, in order to prevent the grooves from "clogging" with snow.
According to world-class servicemen, the influence of a correctly selected structure on the quality of sliding is higher than the influence of choosing the right ointment. Racing skis with black (graphite-containing) polyethylene require less groove depth in the structure compared to skis with colorless plastic, since black plastic releases less thermal energy when sliding. To this it should be added that high fluoride slip ointments "work" better on a thinner structure, since they "repel" water better and do not need particularly deep grooves to drain it.
Racing skis that go on sale, as a rule, have a factory structure of various levels of aggressiveness depending on their purpose (meaning the division into “cold” and “warm” skis). They are best adapted to the conditions for which they are intended, so when buying skis, you should take into account the climatic features of the region in which you live or intend to ski.
Changing the structure of skis. Steingrinding
If you are unhappy with the structure applied at the factory, or it has undergone significant wear, there are two ways to fix the situation. The first is the application of the so-called "manual" structure using special tools - manual knurling. The second way is to apply the structure by machine on grinding machines, commonly known as "steinslip", which can be roughly translated from German as "grinding with an emery stone."
Structure applied with manual knurling, does not last long, since the material of the sliding surface - UHMW polyethylene (Ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene) - is a fairly elastic material that tends to return to its original shape at temperatures of about 100 degrees and above. This means that with each subsequent ski preparation with an iron, the knurling grooves practically disappear. It should also be noted that the basic factory structure does not completely disappear when knurling is used. This means that adapting "cold" skis to warm weather (and vice versa) with knurling is quite problematic. This applies primarily to manual knurling with rotating cutters, which “squeeze out” a relatively shallow pattern on a sliding surface. Fixed cutter knurling "cuts" grooves that last longer, but still disappear after a while. In addition, it should be noted that the knurling cutters become dull rather quickly (after processing 10-15 pairs of skis) and require sharpening or replacement.
A more radical and effective way to update the structure on a sliding surface is to process skis on special grinding machines (steingrinders). The main advantages of this process are:
- The applied structure is retained for quite a long time. Even ambitious riders resort to this procedure no more than twice a season, and for an amateur rider it is enough to treat their skis before the start of the new season.
- The grinder reproduces the structure with almost perfect precision. That is, if a particular structure has proven itself well in the most typical conditions for a given region, it can be reproduced with each subsequent processing.
- The software of the machine is able to ensure the application of a large number of structures of various types and parameters, which allows you to choose the best version of the structure for almost any weather and snow conditions.
- The grinder does not just apply this or that structure to a sliding surface. With it, you can completely remove traces of previous structures, as well as perfectly level the sliding surface, making it absolutely flat before applying a new structure (without “blockages” in one direction or another, which is typical when skis wear, especially skate skis).
However, one should take into account the fact that service centers providing such services often deal mainly with alpine skiing and snowboarding. When processing skis and snowboards with metal edges, 5-6 passes are usually made to level the sliding surface, and then 3-4 more passes to apply the structure. In this case, the abrasive stone exerts a sufficiently large pressure on the sliding surface of the ski or snowboard. Metal edges prevent the removal of too much polyethylene, so this treatment does not pose a particular danger to them.
The situation is quite different with cross-country skiing. They do not have metal edges, and the layer of sliding plastic is somewhat thinner. They must be processed with extreme care, with less pressure of the abrasive stone on the sliding surface and, as a rule, fewer passes. Otherwise, your skis may be hopelessly damaged. Therefore, before using the services of a particular service center, collect all possible information about its specialization and reputation.
Applying a structure by machine is a fairly rare operation. While not inherently more expensive than prepping skis with fluorocarbon powders and accelerators, it shouldn't be done too often due to the wear and tear of the plastic in the process. Therefore, it is desirable to take measures to ensure that this structure is preserved for as long as possible. First of all, it is necessary to deal with the oxidation of the sliding surface, since the oxidized (more precisely, having lost its original hardness) plastic must be removed by scraping, and this entails the removal of the structure. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the sliding surface, preventing it from drying out. Treat the sliding surface with paraffin in a timely manner, remove the old sliding lubricant only in a “hot” way, fill the plastic with transport paraffin when storing and transporting skis - these are the basic rules for ski care that must be strictly observed.
Repair of the sliding surface of skis.
When scratches appear, do not rush to “treat” them with repair candles. A small scratch affects glide much less than a large patch.
Another important advantage of the machine structure is the shape and depth of the grooves. This is especially important when applying herringbone structures consisting of individual short grooves arranged in a diagonal direction. Patterned cutting abrasive stones allow you to cut fairly thin and deep grooves that will not clog with snow when sliding. These cavities serve as "pockets" for air, which prevents braking due to "suction". Manual knurling reproduces such grooves, in which the depth increases gradually. They are easily clogged with snow and lose their effectiveness.
A very important point is the high-quality processing of the sliding surface after applying the structure on the “Steingrind” machine. After such processing, a large amount of villi and plastic particles remain on the sliding surface, which at first glance may seem ideal. To remove them, carefully, without much pressure (so as not to damage the applied structure), treat the sliding surface sharp metal scraper, and then fibertex. Then carry out hot cleaning several times with the help of low-melting paraffin, removed in a warm state. The final cleaning is best done with refractory (“cold”) paraffin, which, when removed with a scraper, will “break off” from the sliding surface along with the villi. The final refinement of skis (the so-called "rollback") can be carried out in the only correct natural way - you need to drive several tens of kilometers on them, while the quality of the glide will improve with each kilometer traveled.
There are a large number of types of structures that differ in the shape and depth of the grooves, as well as the distance between them. Their effect on glide has not yet been scientifically studied, so skiers and ski service professionals rely on their experience and intuition. When choosing a structure, rely on your own experience or trust reliable, proven professionals.
Some types of structures applied on the “steinslift” machine are shown in the figures below.
